Belay Devices

Handling Smart

Inserting the rope

Inserting the rope in the Smart.Use a locking carabiner to attach the Smart to the belay loop of your climbing harness and lock the carabiner.

In the basic position, the braking hand is always below the device and grasping the brake line.

Paying out rope

Place the thumb of the braking hand under the nose of the Smart and pull the device away from you while keeping it in a horizontal position.

Release your grip on the brake line slightly and use your guide hand to pull the rope through the device.

Taking up rope

Use the guide hand (the guide hand to the climber) to take the rope up.

At the same time, briefly move the braking hand up and pull the brake line through the device.

Immediately lower the braking hand again and slide it back under the device to the basic position, while retaining your grasp on the brake line.

Lowering the climber

Hold the brake line with both hands.

Place the thumb of the guide hand under the nose of the Smart and raise the device in a horizontal position. This releases the locking mechanism.

Release your grip on the brake line and use both hands to slide it through the Smart in a controlled manner.

Handling Smart Alpine

Handlijng Crag Light / Wall Alpine

How you use the Crag Light right?
How to use the Wall Alpine?
Crag Light Belay and Wall Alpine Belay

Basic position and belaying of a lead climber
(the following Figures 1 - 4 are only relevant for use with the Wall Alpine Belay)

The Wall Alpine Belay is installed at the belay station with the large attachment eyelet and a locking carabiner. Subsequently, the two strands are guided from above through the rope openings of the Wall Alpine Belay. What is important is that the strands that lead to the second climbers are at the top and the brake rope runs under the V-shaped grooves of the device. Attach an additional locking carabiner to the two strands and wire cable of the belay device. Using your braking hand, you can now take up rope. Should one or even both second climbers fall, the rope is automatically locked by the Wall Alpine Belay. What is important is that despite the locking function the braking hand continues to grasp the brake rope. Even if one climber falls when belaying two climbers or if one climber is hanging on the rope and the Wall Alpine Belay is locking, the braking hand must remain on the brake rope (Figure 2).

Warning

Thin ropes reduce the braking effect. We recommend you use self-belaying when abseiling (using a prusik knot or another reliable technique).

Belaying of one or two climbers in autolocking mode from a belay station
(the following Figures 1-4 are only relevant for use with the Wall Alpine Belay)

The Wall Alpine Belay is installed at the belay station with the large attachment eyelet and a locking carabiner. Subsequently, the two strands are guided from above through the rope openings of the Wall Alpine Belay. What is important is that the strands that lead to the second climbers are at the top and the brake rope runs under the V-shaped grooves of the device. Attach an additional locking carabiner to the two strands and wire cable of the belay device. Using your braking hand, you can now take up rope. Should one or even both second climbers fall, the rope is automatically locked by the Wall Alpine Belay. What is important is that despite the locking function the braking hand continues to grasp the brake rope. Even if one climber falls when belaying two climbers or if one climber is hanging on the rope and the Wall Alpine Belay is locking, the braking hand must remain on the brake rope (Figure 2).

Release of autolocking mode after a fall or lowering of a second climber
(Figures 3 and 4)

The braking hand must hold the brake rope firmly throughout the entire process. Thread an accessory cord or sling through the smaller release opening of the Wall Alpine Belay. The cord/sling is then deflected via a fixed point and each end of the accessory cord / sling is attached to the belay device and belay loop of the climbing harness. By gently pulling the accessory cord or sling, you can release the locking mechanism of the Wall Alpine Belay. With the hand on the brake rope, you can lower the second climber in a controlled fashion by applying more or less pressure on the brake rope. As an alternative to this anchor point, a larger carabiner can be clipped into the release opening of the Wall Alpine Belay. It can be used as a lever to release the autolocking mechanism (see Figure 4).

Rappelling with the Crag Light Belay and Wall Alpine Belay

To rappel, thread the rope into the belay device as shown in Fig. B. For better handling of the Crag Light Belay or Wall Alpine Belay when rappelling, the use of the Mammut Belay Sling is recommended. To provide for additional safety, always make a Prusik knot with the rope and attach the other end of the Prusik sling with a carabiner to the leg loop of the climbing harness.

Basic position and belaying of a lead climber

The Wall Alpine Belay is installed at the belay station with the large attachment eyelet and a locking carabiner. Subsequently, the two strands are guided from above through the rope openings of the Wall Alpine Belay.

What is important is that the strands that lead to the second climbers are at the top and the brake rope runs under the V-shaped grooves of the device. Attach an additional locking carabiner to the two strands and wire cable of the belay device. Using your braking hand, you can now take up rope.

Should one or even both second climbers fall, the rope is automatically locked by the Wall Alpine Belay. What is important is that despite the locking function the braking hand continues to grasp the brake rope. Even if one climber falls when belaying two climbers or if one climber is hanging on the rope and the Wall Alpine Belay is locking, the braking hand must remain on the brake rope (Figure 2).

Warning
Thin ropes reduce the braking effect. We recommend you use self-belaying when abseiling (using a prusik knot or another reliable technique).

Belaying of one or two climbers in autolocking mode from a belay station

(the following Figures 1-4 are only relevant for use with the Wall Alpine Belay)

The Wall Alpine Belay is installed at the belay station with the large attachment eyelet and a locking carabiner. Subsequently, the two strands are guided from above through the rope openings of the Wall Alpine Belay. What is important is that the strands that lead to the second climbers are at the top and the brake rope runs under the V-shaped grooves of the device. Attach an additional locking carabiner to the two strands and wire cable of the belay device. Using your braking hand, you can now take up rope. Should one or even both second climbers fall, the rope is automatically locked by the Wall Alpine Belay. What is important is that despite the locking function the braking hand continues to grasp the brake rope. Even if one climber falls when belaying two climbers or if one climber is hanging on the rope and the Wall Alpine Belay is locking, the braking hand must remain on the brake rope (Figure 2).

Release of autolocking mode after a fall or lowering of a second climber

(Figures 3 and 4)

The braking hand must hold the brake rope firmly throughout the entire process. Thread an accessory cord or sling through the smaller release opening of the Wall Alpine Belay. The cord/sling is then deflected via a fixed point and each end of the accessory cord / sling is attached to the belay device and belay loop of the climbing harness. By gently pulling the accessory cord or sling, you can release the locking mechanism of the Wall Alpine Belay. With the hand on the brake rope, you can lower the second climber in a controlled fashion by applying more or less pressure on the brake rope. As an alternative to this anchor point, a larger carabiner can be clipped into the release opening of the Wall Alpine Belay. It can be used as a lever to release the autolocking mechanism (see Figure 4).

Rappelling with the Crag Light Belay and Wall Alpine Belay

To rappel, thread the rope into the belay device as shown in Fig. B. For better handling of the Crag Light Belay or Wall Alpine Belay when rappelling, the use of the Mammut Belay Sling is recommended. To provide for additional safety, always make a Prusik knot with the rope and attach the other end of the Prusik sling with a carabiner to the leg loop of the climbing harness.

Bionic/Wall 8

Belay devices must only be used as shown in Figures 1 and 2. Any other application could be dangerous.

The belay device should only be used with screw carabiners (or other lockable carabiners).

Always check that the carabiner is correctly locked and attached to the belay loop.

Place the rope around the belay device as shown in Figure 1. This technique can be used with both single and double rope lines.

Proceed as shown in Figure 2 for abseiling.

Warning
Thin ropes reduce the braking effect. We recommend you use self-belaying when abseiling (using a prussic knot or another reliable technique).

Lifespan

The lifespan of a belay depends on factors such as frequency of use or application.

In general, products must be replaced:

  • After a hard fall
  • After Contact with aggressive chemicals
  • In the event of corrosion
  • In the case of excessive wear

In cases of normal and competent use, and where no serious damage is sustained as a result of external influences, products should be replaced at least every 5 years.