Rock, Ice, Apine, Skiing
Favorite Mammut Gear:
Carabiners, Goblin Climbing Shoes, Serenity Rope, Pulse
Favorite Climbing/Skiing Area:
Kalymnos Greece for climbing and the Snake River Range, ID/WY for skiing
7c+ Kalymnos, Greece / Windy Chute, North Face Windy Peak - Snake River Range, ID
About Dean Lords
Growing up in the shadows of the Teton Range, Dean first discovered climbing in 1988 at the age of thirteen. He quickly sharpened his teeth on many of the Teton alpine routes and cragged extensively at the City of Rocks and other nearby destinations. Dean recalls a pivotal moment in his perception of climbing while at Smith Rocks, Oregon during the summer of 1993. “I had no idea what people where doing outside of the Tetons and the City of Rocks,” says Dean. “Smith opened my eyes to the rewarding enjoyment of sequential movement.” The highlight that summer was an ascent of the highly coveted route: Rude Boys 5.13c. This accomplishment laid the foundation for a personal journey to define Dean’s ambitions and ultimate capabilities.
Fifteen years and countless routes later, Dean has compiled an extensive resume of rock, ice, mixed and alpine climbs in the USA and western Canada. His passion for rock climbing has taken Dean to the free routes of Yosemite and Zion’s National Parks. The beautiful sandstone bouldering of Horse Pens 40 in Alabama. Numerous canyon routes and sport climbs of Red Rocks, Nevada, extensive climbing in the Teton Range and an extended trip to the Island of Kalymnos in Greece.
While traveling, Dean enjoys seeking out and visiting lesser-known crags where he continually finds valuable experiences, great people, and amazing high quality routes. Many of Dean's favorite winter accomplishments have been on the frozen drips of the Absaroka-Beartooth Range in Montana, a handful of successful trips to the alpine arena of the Canadian Rockies, and numerous first ascents of ephemeral gems in the central ranges of Idaho. Dean favors technical and challenging Grade V alpine routes, splitter cracks, the sequential movement of long, steep, endurance sport climbs, and scratching around on thin and pumpy mixed lines. He is no stranger to difficult terrain with dozens of 5.13 redpoints, and 5.12+ onsights every year; combined with notable first ascents up to 5.13+ and significant repeats in almost every aspect of climbing.
Recently authoring nearly a dozen new mixed creations including Somewhere Between Heaven and Hell M8 WI5 in Teton Canyon, Wyoming; Fallen Angel M8+ WI6, and Indulgence M9+ located in the Snake River Canyon of Idaho. These mixed routes are merely an extension of his vision and the possibilities for new terrain in his home state of Idaho. Dean continues to open modern mixed alpine routes in areas previously not considered. His pioneering spirit has led him to a handful of quality gems worthy of the American Alpine Journal. He is always searching for that new remote alpine gem, hanging dagger, or futuristic sport cave.
Dean’s ability to climb is matched only by his kindness and humility. He thrives on seeing other climbers succeed and is constantly reaching out to share his passion, offer beta, encouragement, helpful tips, or a belay to those in need.