Josh Wharton

Discipline: All-arounder

Favorite Mammut Gear:
Serentiy Rope, Talc Pant, Microlayer Windbreaker

Favorite Climbing Area:
Black Canyon National Park, The Karakoram, The Fitz Roy Massif

Favorite Climb:
The North Pillar of Fitz Roy

About Josh Wharton

Josh Wharton is one of North America's leading all-around climbers. Just a small sampling of his career highlights include the first ascent of The Flame and The Azeem Ridge in the Karakoram region of Pakistan, the first free ascent of Fitz Roy's North Pillar, the first ascent of The Message or The Money on Kichatna Spire Alaska, winning the 2009 Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition, and climbing M10, V10, and 5,13 in a week. When he's not off climbing or on an expedition Josh makes his home in Rifle, Colorado with his wife Erinn Kelly.

Favorite Mammut gear: 9.2mm Revelation Rope, Stratus Hooded Jacket

The person:

• At only 28, Josh Wharton has already made a significant impact upon the world of alpine climbing.
• In the summer of 2002, on the first ascent of the Flame in northeastern Pakistan, Josh made what American Alpine Journal editor John Harlin called, “one of the boldest summit leads in climbing history,” climbing 150 feet of completely unprotected 5.10 slab to reach spire’s tiny summit.
• In 2003 Josh received the American Alpine Club’s Robert Bates Youth Award for “cutting edge climbing achievement, and great potential for future success. Josh currently makes his home in Rifle, Colorado.
• In 2004, Josh succeeded on the much-attempted Southeast Ridge of Great Trango Tower; with vertical gain of 7,400 feet it is perhaps among the longest rock routes in the world. Josh and his partner Kelly Cordes climbed the route with a single 28lb pack between them in four and a half days, suffering through the final two days without water. Climbing legend Jack Tackle called the route, “one of the best alpine climbing achievements in recent history.”
• Josh has also climbed difficult routes in other areas of the world. He’s completed significant repeats, first ascents, and first free ascents from Patagonia, to Black Canyon National Park, to The Cirque of the Unclimbables.

Accomplishments:

• First free, and first one-day ascent of the North Pillar (VI 5.11++ icy) of Fitz Roy in 14 hours, Patagonia, February 2006.
• All free link-up (leading all pitches) of The Free Nose (V+ 5.12c) and Tague Yer Time (V+ 5.12b) in 13 hours, Black Canyon National Park, May 2006.
• First ascent of the oft-tried Avenger (5.13 Trad) Independence Pass Colorado, June 2006.
• First one day ascent of the Serpent (VI 5.11+ R/X), Black Canyon National Park, Colorado, October 2005.
• First free ascent of King of Thebes (V+ 5.12c), La Esphinge, Peru, June 2005
• Free-solo Original Route (V 5.11), La Esphinge, Peru, June 2005.
• 52 hour enchainment of St. Exupery, San Rafael, and Poincenot, Patagonia, February 2005.
• “The Trifecta” speed climbing enchainment (20hr. 45 min.) of three classic grade V
• Black Canyon free routes, October 2004.
• First ascent of the Azeem Ridge (VII 5.11R/X M6 A2, done in 4.5 days, alpine style)
• Great Trango Tower, Pakistan, July 2004.
• Second ascent, onsight in 10hrs, of the sustained Tague Yer Time (V+ 5.12b/c) Black Canyon National Park, May 2004.
• First ascent of Bloodsport (IV 5.12 R), Black Canyon National Park, April 2004.
• Ice encrusted ascent of the French Route (27 hours Rio Blanco-to-Rio Blanco), Fitz Roy, Patagonia, February 2004.
• First free ascent of the Austrian Ridge, St. Exupery, Patagonia, February 2004.
• Onsight ascent of Eroica (V 5.12b/c) on the Diamond. Only 8 weeks after sustaining a badly broken foot in a 60-foot fall, August 2003.
• First Ascent of Super Wuss (V 5.11-R), Black Canyon National Park, October 2002.
• First alpine-style, first ascent of Shipton Spire, via Khanadan Buttress (VI 5.11 C1), Pakistan, August 2002.
• First ascent of the Flame Spire, via Under Fire (VI 5.10X A3 M5 AI4), Pakistan, August 2002
• Eighteen hour linkup of El Capitan’s Nose, and Half Dome’s Regular Northwest Face, Yosemite, May 2002.
• First one day, all free ascent of Proboscis (via the Original Route), including the first onsight lead of the previously top-roped crux pitch (5.12 R), Canadian Northwest Territories, August 2001.
• First ascent of Pecking Order (V 5.11+), Parrot Beak Peak, Canadian Northwest Territories, August 2001.
• First ascent of Unfinished Symphony (VI 5.10+ A2), Hainibrak Tower, Pakistan, July 2000.
• First ascent of The Patricia McKee Wall (IV 5.10+), Little Trango, Pakistan, August 2000
• Sixty-plus different free routes in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.
• Nineteen ascents of the Diamond.

Speed Records:

• Free solo Bastille Crack: 5 min. 43 sec
• Free solo Yellow Spur: 13 min. 10 sec
• Car-to-car on Stratosfear (VI 5.11+R): 10hr. 15 min
• Car-to-car Longs Peak, Diamond in winter (via D7): 14hr. 17 min
• Lotus Flower Tower: 4hr. 21 min.

Technical Ability:

• 5.12+ onsights
• 5.13+ redpoints
• M9 onsights
• Modern A4