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John Kear

Discipline: All, Rock-Trad, Sport, Bouldering, Ice, Alpine,Skiing

Favorite Mammut gear: Outline Hoody, Revelation Rope

Favorite climbing area: Sandia Mountains, NM

Favorite climb: Nose In A Day

About John Kear

John Kear is a professional mountain guide and zealous all-around climber. He is one of only a hand full of Americans to become a fully certified UIAGM guide. Nineteen years of mountain experience has taken him all over the world for work and play. From the high Alpine peaks of Alaska, the Alps, the Andes and the Himalaya to the desert crags and towers of the American Southwest, John is equally at home seeking out beautiful and challenging ascents. Specializing in demanding and technical routes he guides as Co-owner of Suntoucher Mountain Guides. His passion for first ascents and adventure climbing was born in the Sandia Mountains of New Mexico, an enchanting little range of granite fins, towers and walls just outside of his home in Albuquerque. When not away climbing and guiding in the world's greater mountain ranges, John is home in New Mexico continuing to seek out challenging new routes and sharing the classic climbs with friends and guided clients.  Professional guiding began at 22 and John became the seventeenth American to gain UIAGM status in 2004.

"As a climber and a guide I've been shaped by the mountains and the people that I've gone there with. I've sought out adventures that have pushed my own limits and helped others achieve their goals by going beyond their own perceived limits."

Personal Climbing and Skiing Skills:
Rock 5.13b
Ice WI 7
Mixed M9
Ski equivalent to PSIA level III Instructor

Climbing Experience: notable and memorable climbs 1995-2008

Iron Hawk VI 5.9 A4 Yosemite Valley, CA 1996
Purple Haze VI 5.11 A4+ Sandia Mountains, NM First Ascent 1995
Rainbow Dancer V 5.11R Sandia Mountains, NM 1999
Unpopular Mechanics 5.12d/5.13a Jacks Canyon, AZ 1997
Liberty Crack V 5.11 AO, Liberty Bell WA, 1999
Freeway V 5.11d Squamish, BC 2000
Dos Hermanos 5.12a Indian Creek, UT 1999
Levitation 29 V 5.11c, Red Rock, NV, 2000
Cloud Tower IV 5.11d, Red Rock, NV, 2000
Le Voie Contanmine III 5.11c Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix FR 2002
West Face, El Cap V 5.11c, one day ascent, 2002
La Demande, TD, Les Gorges Du Verdon, France, 2004
The Promise Land V 5.12b/c Sandia Mountains, NM First Ascent 2004
Aerial Boundaries IV 5.11+ Sandia Mountains, NM 2005
Midsummer Nights Dream/Sex Comedy III 5.11a, Black Canyon, CO 2005
Thunderbird III 5.12a, Sandia Mountains NM, second ascent 2006
Top Flite II 5.12b, Sandia Mountains NM, 2006
Blood in the Water II 5.12+ Sandia Mountains NM, second ascent 2007
Cat Daddy I 5.13a, Sandia Mountains, NM 3rd ascent 2007
North Face of Castleton Tower III 5.11a, Castle Valley UT 2007
The North Face of the Rostrum IV 5.11c, Yosemite Valley, CA 2007
The Nose in a Day VI 5.11 C1, El Capitan, CA 11h40m, 2007
Raven Steals the Sun III 5.11+, Sandia Mountains NM, second ascent 2007
Brother Wolf II 5.12b, Sandia Mountains NM, first ascent 2008
Sinister Dane 5.13b Socorro NM 2008

The Mean Green IV WI 5, Cody WY, 1995
Rainbow Serpent IV WI 6, Ghost River, Canada 1997
Star of my Dreams III WI4 Huyna Potosi, Bolivia First Ascent 1998
Gravity's Rainbow III WI 5, Red Mountain Pass, CO 1998
Nemeisis VI, WI6 Stanley Headwall, BC 1999
Les Miserables IV, WI6+ Mount Wilson, Canadian Rockies 1999
Mixed Master IV 5.8 WI5, Icefields Parkway, Canada 1999
La Ventana Mixed Route, M7 Ouray CO 2000
Secret Probation M7, Vail CO 2000
Tic Tac M7+, Ouray, CO 2002
Sisters of Mercy M8, Oura,y CO 2002
Polar Circus V WI 5, Icefields Parkway, Canada , 2004
Bird Brain Boulevard V WI5 M6, San Juans, CO, 2005
The Talisman V WI6+ M6, San Juans, CO 2005
The Sorcerer IV WI 5+, Ghost River Valley, Canada 2005
Super Bock III WI 5, Field British Columbia, Canada 2005
Hydrophobia IV WI 5+, Alberta , Canada, 2006
Swank I M8-, BC Canada, 2006
The Boyd Mystery M8, BC, Canada 2007
The French Maid IV WI 6, BC, Canada , 2007
Chinese Water Torture M9, Ouray CO, 2009          
Fractured Fairytails M6, Ouray CO 2009                                                                                                                                         
Alpine                                                                                                                                                                            Summits of dozens of major mountains in North and South America, Asia and Europe including 17 summits over 6000m

First Ascent: She Sells Sanctuary V AI4 M4 Pico Norte, Illimani, 21,200ft, Bolivia 1998.
North Ridge of Mt. Stuart solo ascent, Echantments, WA 1998
First Ascent: Ciao Baby IV AI4 5.6 Pico Huyomen 18,301ft, Bolivia 1996.
Mt. McKinley West Rib, Alaska grade 4 June 2000, June 2001.
Southwest Buttress Talluiraju, VI M6 WI6, Cordillera Blanca, Peru 2000
Attempted Alpine Style ascent, SW Buttress Makalu, Nepal Himamlaya 2001
First Ascent: Northwest Face of Peak 3 V AI4, Makalu region Nepal 2001.
West Face of Huayna Potosi V 5.6 AI 4, Cordillera Real Bolivia, solo ascent 2001
Ferrari Route on Alpamayo IV AI4, Cordillera Blanca Peru, solo ascent 2002
Northeast Buttress, Mt. Slesse, BC V 5.10a, Speed ascent, 14hrs car to car. 2002.
Frendo Spur, Aiguille Du Midi, Chamonix France, D+ 1100m 2003.
West Face Couloir, Mt. Huntington AK, AI 4, ( Summit ) 2004
South Ridge of Kyajo Ri 6186m, V 5.9 AI3, Khumbu Nepal, second ascent of the mountain, first asecen of the south ridge, Oct 2005
North East Face of Cholatse, Sapphire Dragon (first ascent) 1800m WI 5+ M6, Khumbu Nepal, Nov 2005
Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300 Ruth Gorge AK, 2006

Guided Climbing Highlights 1997-2008

Tantalus Wall IV5.10 A2, Squamish, BC
West Ridge Forbidden Peak III 5.6, Cascades, WA
North Ridge Mt. Baker III AI3, Cascades, WA

West Face Pequeno Alpamayo II AI 3-4, Bolivia
Nido De Condors, Illimani III AI 2-3, Bolivia
Normal route Chimborazo III, Ecuador

West Rib Alaska Grade 4, Mt. McKinley, AK
Northwest face of Explorer,s Peak Alaska Grade 2
West Face of Mt. Barille, AK Grade 2

South Face of Sajama III Bolivia
Procrastination IV 5.8, Sandia Mountains, NM
West Rib Alaska Grade 4, Mt. McKinley, AK

North Face of Quitaraju D-, Peru
Stairway to Heaven III WI 4, San Juans, CO
Angle's Crest IV 5.10, Squamish, BC

Southwest Ridge of the Needle IV 5.8, Sandias, NM
Traverse of Mont Blanc PD+, Chamonix France
Hornli Ridge AD+, the Matterhorn, Switzerland
West Buttress AK Grade 2, Mt. McKinley, AK
The Iliad V 5.10c, first ascent link up on the shield, Sandia Mountains, NM

West Face of Mt. Huntington Alaska Grade 4
Thunder Ridge, West Buttress Mt. McKinle, AK grade 4
Polar Circus V WI5, Canadian Rockies
Inti Watana V 5.10, Mt. Wilson , Red Rocks, NV
La Demande V 5.10, Gorges du Verdon, France
Mittelegi Ridge D, Eiger, Berner Oberland, Switzerland
Space Boys V 5.10, El Portrero Chico, Mexico
Frendo Spur D+, Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix, France

Super Bock IV WI 5, Canadian Rockies
Northwest ridge of Tocllaraju 6032m, Peru
Monte Rosa, Dufourspitze 4634m
Voie Rébuffat, South Face of the Aiguillie du Midi, IV 5.10
Goulotte Parrot, North Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul, V 5.8 AI 4+

Hydrophobia IV WI 5, Canadian Rockies
Classic Haute Route ski mountaineering traverse, French and Swiss Alps
Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300, 4300ft AI3 5.8, Ruth Gorge, Alaska
Ham and Eggs Couloir, 2000ft AI4-5, The Moose's Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska
Mini Moonflower North Couloir, 2400ft AI 5/6, Alaska Range

Wapta Ski Traverse, Columbia Icefields, AB Canada
Birdbrain Boulevard IV WI 4 5.8, San Juan Mountains, CO
SW Face of Mt Coness V 5.10b, Sierra Nevada, CA
Epinephrine V 5.9, Red Rocks, NV

Nemesis WI 6 VI Canadian Rockies, CAN
Levitation 29 V 5.11c Red Rocks, NV